Day 73 - Catemaco and Nanciyaga

Day 73 - Rig 2
24 March 2010 – Catemaco
A leisurely walk through the town of Catemaco on our way to our boat landing, started today’s adventure. Alain leading the way on a shortcut to the Malecon – what a treat to hear the birds crazy in the trees and see all the boat captains readying their boats for the day. Our destination was the La Ola restaurant where we had a reservation for a boat trip on Lake Catemaco and later for lunch. Our group is always up for a good boat trip and day on the water – it just seems so much cooler.
Well we are in for a treat today – no English speaking guide or boat captain – so Brian and LuAnn fill in. LuAnn has printed some details from the website about our trip on the lake and eventual destination – Nanciyaga. And well Brian – he will try to interpret what the boat captain and guide are describing in very fast Spanish – “Senor, Hable mas despacio por favor”. Chris can help too – acting out the word for ‘Monkey’, and other helpful pantomimes.
The boat ride on the lake rode us past many local attractions. We saw the shrine of the virgin – minus the real statue as it is in the local church, home of the local tobacco baron (complete with really high fence), nice resort hotel (without people), island of storks (other birds hung out here too), island in the shape of a crocodile (other ideas were the shape of: dinosaur, otter, dog and fat guy on his back). See how much fun you can have when we can make up our own English version! What a group!
Well on to Nanciyaga, an ecological reserve. We picked up our hiking sticks, Spanish speaking guide, LuAnn’s notes and we are off. This is a very ancient Olmec site and has many sacred replica shrines and statues. The reserve is set up as a holy place for cleansing and contemplation. There are huts that you can actually stay in for a personal retreat. There are steam houses, reflective paths, Mescales, shrines for different gods to worship and of course prayer groves. Most impressive was the mud bath place where a few of our braver guests received mud facials – they didn’t go for the whole body treatment, but there was a nice pond where one could wash the mud off after treatment. A really cool leaf cup was offered with a ‘true mineral water’ to drink – AHHHH refreshing! As the group trekked on – some still with mud faces since it had to dry at least 15 minutes before washing it off – we came to a clearing and the place of the shaman. Well he offered a cleansing for 150 pesos for 6 minutes. Barb was first step up – WOW she came out with a smile on her face – a little damp and what was that slapping sound we heard. Come to find out the shaman was slapping her with leaves while circling and sprinkling her with scented water. AMAZING – Wendy and Gail were quick to follow for their turn in the shaman hut. Each came out with a talisman just for them around their neck and filled with medicine that would help keep their aura clean. All three looked happy and relaxed with the experience – thus, it must be good. Our final portion of the walk stopped at the sinks for the mud facials to be washed off. Oh those glowing faces – how beautiful they look. Back to the boat and back to civilization – Boy are we a hungry bunch.
After lunch – Kathy and LuAnn decided to find a shaman of their own in town. Not to be left out of any holistic experience – Chris joined in. WHAT A TREAT – the restaurant owners’ grandson brought us to “El Salto del Tigre” a well known shaman. After negotiating a price (is that sacrilegious – will we get the shaman mad? – who knew) Kathy ventured first - 10 minutes later she emerges, soaking wet hair and a startled expression, but actually looking very relaxed. “Cold” was her description – she felt cold, but glowing at the same time. My turn – okay sit in the chair, liquid in a bottle was poured all over me from my head to my toes – special attention to wetting my hair it seems. Next he wets the leaves with a different bottle – then the slapping begins – all over me, face, neck, hands, arms, legs and mid-section. To top it off he used an egg to touch special points – eyes, cheeks, lips, arms, hands. And then I am done – stand in front of a fan to dry for a few minutes and – adios. Tingle – tingle – tingle and what a great scent – I felt GREAT! We all had similar experiences, but when we compared notes we were all feeling coldness in different parts – discussion through the translator said that the toxins were being released through this coolness – I guess we each had our own bad vibes to get rid of in different parts of our body. A very mystical and a fun experience.
Well tomorrow is another travel day. So sad it is almost the end –
Brian and Chris

Note: For those interested in more information about Nanciyaga, the website is www.nanciyaga.com. The email address for the White Shaman was erick_oz@hotmail.com. The White Shaman charged 200 pesos to cleanse your aura and 150 pesos for a peanut butter jar filled with green clay.